Around the second week of training, we learned very quickly that collectivos (public buses) were going to be a big part of our lives. After all, we’re Peace Corps volunteers. We can’t really expect to be shuttled around all the time in an a/c microbus. That would be too good to be true. And not enough suffering to justify “servicio”. Not to mention, since manejar un vechiclo (to drive a vehicle) is prohibited as well as riding a moto, as apart of official policy, getting comfy with the transit system…well…is just part of getting used to the good life in Paraguay.
Let me attempt to paint an picture. You’re on the side of the road, most likely on an uneven sidewalk, or more than likely a strip of red tierra waiting for a collective (bus) to pass by. Then like you are practically hitchhiking, the aspirantes (now offical volunteers, whooo) wave down a bus headed the direction we needed to go… For the Ita folks like myself. That means TWO buses. We get off at tres bocas, where the Road splits to head toward asuncion in order to catch another collective to Ita. This collective headed to our training community, Ita, was always the fun one…especially between 5:30-8pm on a weekday. Everyone and their mother is getting off work and headed out of Asuncion to their pueblos.
After we manage to successfully wave an ITA bus down… of course, to no surprise at all-- It is jam-packed. My favorite part is that the guy who collects the money is like adelante adelante…And all of us are thinking… “to where??” People are hanging off your bus man!!! If we squeeze in, we’ll be falling out!!
After another bus comes by, that is thankfully not also packed with goods that someone is carrying to their dispensa, we manage to get on. It’s still tight squeeze, but it’s bearable. It’s really only once a week or so that we practically hang off the bus… I think those were Mondays or Fridays. Now, this means that every time someone has to get off, you have to get off the bus, and reenter everytime. All the while of course, they are still picking up more people. Seriously, I don’t understand how these people manage to find room if we are practically off the bus.
Then there is “on the bus experience” that we haven’t covered yet…After we are actually on the bus, the money collector is constantly ushering us to head to the back and pack it in more… “Adalente por favor… pasa por favor” he says. More than likely, there is no room…so you are awkwardly squeezing your leg in between people and attempting to make room where there is obviously no room. As far as the typical American bubble that us nortes swear to… you can forget it.. Most likely you will be in some awkward position between two men, or meet a stubborn lady who is taking up all the room with her resilient stance all the while people burn holes staring at you. Also, while you avoid looking at the mother who’s nursing her child in the middle of the chaos. Oh, and of course let’s not forget that all this time we are desperately grasping for something to hold on to so that you do not fall over from the racing maniac driver…
The chofer drives like a mad man, racing down the road, passing up other cars. And then he squeels to a stop suddenly, throwing everyone off balance, when someone pulls the line to get off. Of course, the people getting off have to watch out too because he might speed off while you’ve only got one leg out the bus…So you need to do a quick HOP off the bus. Hop… not step down… got it? There simply is no time.
Although in all other aspects of Paraguayan life, things are completely tranquilopa. I think its time this tranquiloness infiltrates the transit system. Either way, it sure is a good story. And always an adventure. If you come to visit, don't worry. I help you master it.
Much love,
Gins
